There were a few additional bits that I wanted to share from our trip to Cyprus. I’m not sure if they come together as a cohesive theme, but for me were elements that were very meaningful to my experience of Cyprus.
I’ve shared a lot of pictures about architecture and objects that I found beautiful or interesting, but so much of the spirit of a place is its people, so I’d like to share about some people I encountered which brought Cyprus to life.
I had ventured out on my own with a paper map in hand and was strolling along the old Venetian wall trying to find a bus company to inquire about trips out of the city. At one point I paused to check my bearings on the map and a man approached me. We spoke a mixture of English and Greek as he asked me where I was looking to go, what brought me to Cyprus, etc.
I learned that Nicos once worked leading the pharmacy at a local hospital and was very proud of his children. Truth be told, I can’t say I got much in the way of precise directions. Ultimately, I felt his pride of place for Nicosia along with his welcoming spirit which gave me courage and inspiration to keep going. He had just come from the inner town’s market and, as we parted, he opened a bag offered me a banana. I felt sustained in spirit and body to continue my explorations. Thank you, Nicos of Nicosia.
If you’ve been reading the blog for a bit, you likely know I have a passion for fruits and vegetables and love a good market. I’ll diverge for just a moment to share a few market shots just as I went briefly off my path to check out the market after meeting Nicos while on the hunt for the bus company.
While in the occupied part of Nicosia, I visited the Büyük Han (see previous post), an old inn set up by the Ottomans. Inside there were some craft vendors. Towards the end of strolling around the little shops, I found the shop belonging to Gülser Hüseyin and his wife. It was truly extraordinary. My eye was first caught by some carved wooden utensils which I learned were made out of olive wood. Gülser shared that he likes working with olive because it has such a feeling of life about it. They were some of the most beautiful utensils I’ve ever seen. He also makes soaps, weaves and does some traditional embroidery. The quality and care of the work was so evident. Along with that, he and his wife were a very warm and gracious couple. As Gülser’s wife was pulling out some fruit for them to snack on, she offered me a clementine. Here was my second fruit offering within a few hours; I felt my face grow warm in surprise. Later, as I enjoyed the clementine I reflected on their kindness which make it taste even sweeter.
During our visit to the folklore museum, I was drawn to the traditional Cypriot textiles on display – beautifully weavings and embroideries. By chance, I had read about about a workshop of a weaver, Julia Astreou-Christoforou, who has extensively researched and continues these traditional patterns in her own work. As it so happened, I found out that she was holding a holiday open house during the time we were there.
Her studio is in a beautiful space that has been part of her family for some years; I recall reading that her aunt had given sewing classes there in years past. How special it must be to work in a space that has such personal history and beauty.
Among her creations are beautiful shawls, pillow cases, wall hangings, and lampshades with symbolism and beauty. She draws her inspiration widely – from the shape of DNA to environmental concern to history.
We felt very warmly welcomed into this cozy space by Julia and her partner. Her partner had a tray of all different liqueurs that he had made by hand in an array of creative flavors including pomegranate, grapefruit and orange blossom.
Julia Astreou-Christoforou had worked with the Cypriot Handicraft Service for many years. I had the pleasure of coming across the impressive efforts of that organization at the airport as I departed. The airport was decorated with a couple of very tall Christmas trees covered entirely with ornaments showcasing Cypriot traditional crafts – embroidery, weaving, straw, pottery, and lace among others. As I stood and marveled, a woman turned to me and said “That is the most beautiful Christmas tree I’ve ever seen.” It was indeed very special.
I hope you enjoyed journeying with me to Cyprus. I wish you very special holidays and a healthy, happy New Year!
P.S. Here are some of the sweet four-legged residents of Cyprus that I had the chance to meet.
